Stay Slick, Look Sharp
The Buzz Cut
The buzz cut is a timeless style. But to really make it work, you need to have a great shaped head (a noggin like Ryan Gosling’s or Christian Bale’s, for example).
Named after the sound they make, it stands to reason that the look is achieved using clippers, however there are less severe alternatives for those not blessed with a square jaw and perfectly proportionate head.
If that’s you, go for a shape that is slightly square all over [clippered at the sides], with a little more length on the top. Scissor over comb is the Pankhurst technique and I’d highly recommend this rather than clippers exclusively. By cutting, you can work with the shape of the head to make the overall cut more flattering.
A good barber will take everything he knows about you into account, from your personality to your style to your day-to-day living, to provide a cut that suits you. Remember you wear your haircut 24/7, so it needs to work for all scenarios.
The Slick Back
The modern slick back first made an impact in the 1920s. At the time, it was useful to have a hairstyle that wouldn’t be messed up when wearing a hat (a status symbol and indicator of one’s class around the early 20th century). Since then, it has become a timeless classic.
Straight hair is best for this – the more curl you have, the harder it is to slick back properly. As for what face shape suits this style, it’s pretty versatile, as it will allow facial features (like beards, moustaches) to be more prominent, with the hair essentially framing the face. Unfortunately, for those with a receding hairline, the slick back look won’t be ideal as it’ll make recession far more prominent.
The back and sides need to be tapered, natural and fairly tight, with graduation up to the slightly heavier top. If you’re going for an undercut, there needs to be a disconnection here, but blending would be a better option for finer hair.
To style, blow-dry the hair back (if you have hair that grows forward, this will take longer) – bear in mind it takes practice to do this effectively. For a traditional slick look, use a water-based pomade and comb through when damp, or try a matte paste for a softer, more contemporary finish.
The Side Parting
Particularly popular from the 1920s-1940s and again in the 1960s, this style has been revived in the last decade as an easier-to-achieve alternative to the slick back.
As the basis of the haircut is a simple short back and sides, the style is pretty versatile and will suit most hair types and face shapes. That said, this can run the risk of looking like a comb-over if the hair is too long and thin on top.
When in the chair, ask for a classic taper on the back and sides, and for the top to be left long enough to part, but short enough to be neat and tidy.
The styling product you should use depends on your hair density: those with thicker hair should try a paste, while a matte clay works best for finer, less dense hair types.
Actually parting the hair can be tricky; the best approach is to put the product in the hair when damp (not wet) and part using a comb.
You should try to establish where the natural parting is, perhaps with the help of your barber initially. If you’re struggling, comb the hair backwards, and you’ll see where it starts to fall and separate.
The Quiff
The quiff is an iconic style that suits a wide range of ages, face shapes and personal styles. The quiff isn’t best suited to those with receding hairlines as it exposes the forehead.
Before your cut, make sure you’ve decided whether a classic or contemporary take on the quiff works best for you.
The classic quiff features a softer back and sides which are kept short, but not severely so. The contemporary take can feature a dramatic contrast between long hair at the top of the head and a tightly clippered back and sides, producing a ‘disconnected’ effect.
Face shape is also an important consideration. Since the quiff offers natural volume, it’s best not to take the hair at the sides and back too short if you have a long face.
To style, apply a wet styling product to towel-dried hair and comb through to evenly distribute. Then, blow-dry the hair using a hairdryer set to the highest temperature setting and the lowest speed, while simultaneously using a vented brush to sweep the hair into your preferred shape.
Remember to finish off with strong-hold hairspray to make sure your efforts don’t go instantly to waste.
The Textured Cut With Fringe
First things first, you’re going to need a good bit of length in your hair before you schedule a cut for a style like this. Also worth noting is that this textured style works best with thick rather than fine hair, and if you’re receding, then this isn’t the style for you.
Guys with double crowns or cows licks should definitely consider a textured look, as it’s a style that lets your hair lie the way it wants to. It’s best not to battle against these hair problems.
When it comes to achieving the textured look, take a picture with you to demonstrate exactly the type of cut you want. A good barber will be able to tell you from the picture if it’ll suit you and your hair type.
One thing to watch out for is thinning scissors; a lot of barbers tend to get trigger happy with these, but they should never be used on the top of the hair as they can make ends wispy and hair at the root excessively bulky by comparison. Instead, ask for the top to be point cut.
When styling a textured look, you need to make sure the hair is dry. Once dry, work a little texture enhancer, clay or putty into the hair with your fingers. But remember that this is a carefree style, so you don’t it want to look too groomed.
